Old Louisiana State Capitol. Here’s a little history behind it: “New York architect James H. Dakin was hired to design the Baton Rouge capitol building; and rather than mimic the national Capitol Building in Washington, as so many other states had done, he conceived a Neo-Gothic medieval-style castle overlooking the Mississippi, complete with turrets and crenellations. Dakin referred to his design as “Castellated Gothic” due to its decoration with cast iron, which was both cheaper and more durable than other building materials used at the time. The building design was so unusual and distinctive that its romantic, medieval appearance earned the Old Statehouse ridicule from the timelessly famous author, Mark Twain.”
A sassy little mockingbird had perfect timing as I was taking this photo in Natchez City Cemetery. This is the Andrew Brown Memorial (1789 – 1871). Andrew was born in Edinburgh, Scotland. He trained as an architect and migrated to Natchez, by way of Pittsburgh, in 1820. In Natchez, he worked as a builder and established his own lumber business.
Warning: Spoilers Ahead
If you have not finished the S-Town podcast, please do not read any further or view the photos and descriptions included in this blog until after you have listened to the podcast in its entirety.
If you have listened to the popular podcast, S-Town, you have probably been curious about what the town looks like. Maybe you’ve wanted to drive through S-Town, just to see the town featured in the podcast and possibly understand a bit more of John B. McLemore’s world. I recently visited and wanted to share some of the sights that are of note.
John B. McLemore reached out to reporter, Brian Reed, to ask him to investigate what he believed to be a murder in his small Alabama S*** t Town. He hated that he kept hearing stories about Kabrum Burt, a member of a local family, murdering someone and getting away with it. The Burt family is well off and owned local lumber stores known as K3 Lumber. It’s important to note that Reed investigated and discovered the murder never happened. As is often the case, a story was told and kept being told and was blown out of proportion. But without that story, Brian Reed would have never met John B. McLemore and we would never have heard about his life. Here are some photos from John’s world of Woodstock and Greenpond, Alabama…
K3 Supply, formerly known as K3 Lumber, in Greenpond
***This is one of the businesses owned by the Burt family.
Entrance to John B’s property
***The public is not allowed on the property so I wasn’t able to see the maze. I have heard it’s overgrown now.
John B’s Little Ceasar’s Pizza Palace
View as you drive the road to Greenpond Presbyterian Cemetery, where John B. is buried
Entrance to Greenpond Presbyterian Cemetery.
***If you ever visit and want to pay your respects, enter this gate for easiest access to John’s gravesite
John B’s Grave
For over 10 years I’ve had “Visit Gee’s Bend” on my Explore the South bucket list. And this week, I marked that item off my bucket list! While vacationing in my home state of Alabama, I was joined by my mom as we drove from Birmingham to the Black Belt region of the state to Gee’s Bend (known now as Boykin, Alabama). Gee’s Bend is a large bend in the Alabama River. There are about 700 residents in this small, remote, community and most are descendants of slaves. Few people have ever moved out of Gee’s Bend and few have ever moved in. This community has overcome hard times again and again. You can read the history of Gee’s Bend here so you can understand why the residents have such vivid stories to tell through their quilts.
For generations the women of Gee’s Bend have created quilt masterpieces. The women of Gee’s Bend quilt in an improvisational style that is unique in the traditional American quilting world, transforming recycled work clothes and dresses, feed sacks, and fabric remnants into works of art. Their voice and their personal stories come through in each piece they create. Quilter, Revil Mosely, once mentioned in an interview that she was taught to quilt by her grandmother. While learning from her, she pricked her finger and bled and she was crying over the pain. Her grandmother told her that she had to learn that that’s how life is going to be, “you might get hurt but you got to go ahead on.”
The Gee’s Bend masterpieces date back to the early 20th century and were brought into the mainstream art world by writer, artist collector and curator, William Arnett who saw a photo of one of the Gee’s Bend quilts and tracked down the quilters because he fell in love with their work! In 2002, Arnett arranged the first influential exhibition of the Gee’s Bend quilts at the Houston Museum of Fine Arts. The Quilts of Gee’s Bend collection has since been shown at museums of art across the United States. In August of 2006, the United States Postal Service released commemorative Quilts of Gee’s Bend stamps that helped garner more attention for the women and their work.
After the stamps were released an artist painted a mural based on each of the 10 stamps and those murals became the Gee’s Bend Quilting Trail. You can drive the trail and when you do I highly encourage you stop by the Quilter’s Collective that is open by appointment.
I asked Mary Ann about the year Mr. Arnett discovered Gee’s Bend and the quilts and she laughed and said it was like “a good bomb going off” because it set in motion the chance to share their work with an audience that they never would have imagined would see what they do. Mary Ann and Nancy loved showing off the quilts they were working on and the quilts they have available to purchase in their store. And they loved pointing out that there are tiny signatures that are quilted into each piece that you may not even notice unless the quilter, or someone familiar with the quilter, lets you in on the unique signature in the quilt.
You can purchase mini quilts, large quilts and even quilted coasters that are made by 92 year old Ruth Kennedy who has vowed to keep on creating something beautiful until she’s run out of time on this earth.
Gee’s Bend Mural Trail
Quilt 9 – Ms. Ruthy Moseley: “Nine Patch” (note: on the day of our visit we learned from Mary Ann Pettway at the Quilters Collective that this mural had been knocked down. It was not viewable on that day. So if you look and don’t see it, it has not been repaired and replaced)
Directions to Gee’s Bend (from Montgomery, Alabama)
Go west on US 80 to Selma
Go west on AL 22, which will become AL 5 South as you continue your drive
Near Alberta, Alabama mile marker 32, go southeast on CR 29 (you’ll see a sign for the Gee’s Bend Ferry).
Once you turn on CR 29, the quilt trail will begin at the Freedom Quilting Bee site.
The Gee’s Bend Quilters Collective
14570 Co Rd 29, Boykin, AL 36723
Open by appointment.
Call ahead to speak with Mary Ann Pettway. Phone: 334.573.2323
As you walk through what remains of Fort Morgan, you feel as though you can hear echoes of soldiers singing that old song, “Tis a sigh that is wafted across the troubled wave, Tis a wail that is heard upon the shore, Tis a dirge that is murmured around the lowly grave. Oh! Hard times come again no more.”
- Fort Morgan is a pentagonal fort that was constructed between 1819 and 1834.
- The U.S. Army garrisoned Fort Morgan as a staging area for Creek Indians who were being removed to Indian Territory in 1837.
- When Alabama politicians prepared to debate secession, the state militia seized Fort Morgan on January 5, 1861, and it remained under Confederate control until August 1864. After the Battle of Mobile Bay, Union land and naval forces subjected Fort Morgan to a siege of more than two weeks before its commanding officer surrendered on August 23, 1864. Although the Corps of Engineers had repaired the severely damaged structure by 1867, it and other harbor defenses languished in the years after the Civil War.
- The fort was used as a training facility during World War I, but the War Department declared Morgan obsolete in 1923 and sold it to the state of Alabama in 1927 for use as a state park.
- Fort Morgan was briefly activated during World War II to counter the German U-boat threat in the Gulf of Mexico.
While exploring Mooresville, Alabama I almost passed by this church without taking a photo. It seemed so simple. But every church has a story and this one involves a future President of the United States. Mooresville Church of Christ has held services in this building since 1854. Future president James A. Garfield preached a sermon in the building when he was stationed nearby as a federal soldier during the Civil War. Glad I took photos of this place…it’s a historical treasure.
Christ Church Frederica, on St Simons Island in Georgia, was established in 1808 and is the 2nd oldest church in Georgia. The original church building was constructed in 1820 but was burned by Union troops during the Civil War. In 1884, Anson Greene Phelps Dodge, lead the rebuilding of the church as an act of love and remembrance of his wife, Ellen, who had died recently. The church still stands today as a memorial to her. Ellen is buried beneath the alter. The author, Eugenia Price, brought the Dodge family and so many other interesting and inspirational families to life on the pages of her St Simons Trilogy. She’s buried here as well. Highly recommend her books if you love St Simons and the Savannah area and you appreciate novels that are inspired by real people.